The Mini 14 is a great ranch rifle and fills many other practical and tactical uses. Once the Mini 14 comes out of the truck, normally you would use a sling to carry it. ATAC TV maintains that a rifle must have a sling to manage normal routine handling for safety and convenience. Once slung, the muzzle of the gun is usually pointed in a safe direction and is easy to maintain control of it. Most of the time spent with a rifle involves many different types of carry positions if you are on the move. Muzzle up carry is one of the common uses of the sling.

To sling a rifle in the muzzle up position, simply grab the sling near the attachment point on the barrel with your non-firing hand and lift the sling and gun over your firing side shoulder. Adjust the sling on your shoulder for comfort and maintain your firing hand on the sling or gun itself to control the strap from sliding off the shoulder. Normally you would carry the rifle on this side of your body for quick access if needed for some type of situation. If the rifle is slung on the non-firing side, it makes it more difficult to present the firearm to a target when the need arises, but this type of carry might be required depending on your activities at the time. There are advantages of the muzzle up carry for many reasons. The firearm does not hang low on your body and works well for walking through rough terrain or brush maintaining the position of the rifle on your shoulder.

You are slung muzzle up with your Mini 14 and the need arises to present the firearm to a target. Your firing hand is controlling the sling of the rifle, lean forward slightly while reaching under your firing side arm with your non-firing hand. Grasp the rifle on the forearm just forward of the magazine well, pull the rifle out and point muzzle directly at the intended target. Slip the firing side arm out of the sling, establish a firing grip and push the safety off as the gun comes up into the shoulder pocket. Make sure you push the rifle out away from your body to clear any gear or your coat before you pull back into the pocket to eliminate any fumbling. Establish a cheek weld and get on the sights and target. Trigger finger goes onto the trigger to take the slack out getting ready for the shot when the sights are aligned. It’s that simple. When finished with shooting and/or reloading, re-sling the rifle and control it. With enough practice and time spend carrying the Mini 14, you will develop proper habits and become very comfortable with muzzle up sling carry. Watch the ATAC TV Firearms video for a visual reference and all the other Mini 14 instructional programs to learn and review correct handling skills associated with this rifle.

Watch Now: Ruger Mini 14 Muzzle up Sling Carry Program

Firearms built to be used, as “Sniper Rifles” require much research and product testing to be considered for any important mission. The Venom Tactical custom Cottonmouth has earned its reputation as reliable, robust and extremely accurate precision sniper rifle worthy of consideration by any shooter that delivers lead at long distance. With designs and forethought, Lenny Bolton is building sniper rifles that exceed accuracy and handling expectations of the most experienced snipers. This is a “custom” rifle. You can order a rifle build to exactly the specifications of your desires in a sniper rifle.
The rifle tested is chambered in .308 with the recommendation from Venom that only Federal Gold Match 168/175gr ammunition be used exclusively. The chamber reamer is a custom made design for this factory ammunition. Once a stock Remington receiver is mounted in a custom jig, truing, threading and cuts in the lathe are made without disturbing the initial alignment. This insures the bolt; firing pin, receiver and barrel are in perfect alignment. The end result of the machining process constitutes the major difference between Venom’s rifle building process and what other manufacturers normally do by simply facing the receiver and bolt lugs to improve alignment. The design and meticulous machining skills by Lenny are far superior to what other rifle builders consider being “good enough”. Spend some time researching on the Venom Tactical website exploring the specific techniques involved in the production of these fantastic shooting rifles. It all comes down to repeatability from shot to shot and this rifle has shot ¼ inch groups or less.

There are many innovative designs included in the production of the Venom/Lenny Bolton rifles that exists only in his custom firearms. It all starts out with the line-bored Remington receiver and custom elliptical bolt that locks up in the front /back of the receiver for perfect alignment with the barrel. Custom built firing pin also in alignment with the bore line and receiver. Barrel facing and the bolt lugs are machined in perfect alignment and perpendicular to the bolt centerline. Lenny uses a Brux Stainless barrel with a custom twist rate and taper. More notable parts in every rifle build are Badger Ordinance bottom metal M5 trigger guard, AI magazines, Remington trigger set to approx 3 lbs and a Manners T3 pillar bedded stock with 1 inch decelerator pad. You have a choice of Cerakote or DuraCoat finish on the rifle, in any color or combinations. The fit and finish is unparalleled. Custom IS custom, so make it your own. Many options are available for each model of Lenny’s custom guns.

At the range, the first 5 cartridges fired from this Cottonmouth grouped inside .30 thousandth of an inch. This was a great start, but it was consistent through the entire day of shooting. Later in the afternoon, the wind picked up and the worst group of the day turned into a 5 shot string that measured at just under 1/2 of an inch. Great shooting firearm and defiantly a cut above the rest, when it comes to sniper rifles. Doped the rifle out to 1200 yards with first and second round center hits in the wind. Venom Tactical has earned and deserved to be the dedicated sniper rifle for ATAC Staff.

A Fire requires fuel, air and heat to produce combustion. ATAC TV Survival can guide you through all the aspects of your survival plan to include fire-starting tools. Today, we are going to break down the different types or methods of applying heat to start the fire. Some are very simple and others take skill to accomplish the desired result.

Here are the different categories of tools to start fires:

Matches: A standard book of matches would be a good addition to your fire kit, but these are easily damaged by some moisture and unusable. Take some anyway as it is a cheap way to light a fire when not in adverse conditions. There are different specialty matches available and is much better at getting a fire going in less than ideal conditions.

Waterproof Matches: The standard waterproof matches are dipped so the tip of the match will not be damaged by moisture. The only problem with that is the wooden stick of the match will absorb water and destroy the match from the bottom end. Another issue with regular matches is that they need a striking surface to ignite. Good idea to get some “strike anywhere” matches to eliminate this issue, but make sure to carry striking pads also.

Windproof Matches: Most windproof matches are also waterproofed too. The biggest advantage of the wind matches is the extra large amount of tip material running about half way down the stick of the match. Once you strike the match, it will stay burning much longer than standard matches and allow you more time to ignite your tinder before it can be blown out by the wind. These are a good idea to include in your pack if you are going into moist and windy terrain.

Lighters: What could be easier, whip out a butane lighter and start your fire? This is true in normal circumstances, but there are some down sides from depending on them. Always carry an alternate method of creating fire to supplement the lighters. Carry two of the butane lighters in case one gets wet. It will take quite awhile to dry out before it will become usable again, if at all. If you damage the body of the lighter and the fuel leaks out, the striker assembly might be useful but just barely. You may run out of fuel, depending on how long a period of time you must depend on it, and in cold temperatures the liquid fuel may not vaporize as well and become very difficult to light.

Sparks: One way to get very hot and intense, but short-lived heat is by creating sparks. Sparks are tiny bits of super heated metal that are scrapped off the host chunk of metal. Flint and steel have been the most widely known method of producing sparks for fire, early guns and lighters. When you strike flint against steel it produces white light and high temperature as small pieces of metal are scraped off but for only a brief instant. The quality of rock and metal makes a big difference in the efficiency of the spark produced. Another special item is called a “char cloth”. This can be made easily out of 100% cotton that has been heated to high temperatures without any oxygen and turns it into charcoal. What is left is black cloth that easily catches sparks to aid in the process of fire starting. We will discuss the actual process to accomplish setting the tinder on fire and other steps of fire starting on ATAC TV.

Magnesium and Ferrocerium as spark generators work very well. This product includes the spark as well as its own tinder. All you do is scrape shavings from the soft magnesium bar into a small pile about the size quarter. Flip the block over and expose the edge with the sparking rod and scrape it with your knife. The sparks will ignite the magnesium shavings that produce a very intense white-hot flame for a few seconds. This is enough time to start your additional tinder into the fire. The great part of the flint/steel and magnesium fire starter kits is that they last for a very long time and will start thousands of fires, even in the rain.

Friction: Making fire by friction takes some time as instead of a spark or flame to ignite the tinder, it is caused by generating enough friction to heat the tinder to at least 800 degrees Fahrenheit for initial combustion to take place. This required extremely dry wood and some patience. Wood with any moisture in it or even sap or resin from the wood will hinder your efforts as the wood will become polished and not generate the heat required to ignite the fire. Examples of friction type fire starting are the Fire Plow, Fire Saw, Hand Drill and a Bow drill. Each of these sets up the friction of wood rubbing against other with wood chips becoming the tinder.

Pressure: The fire piston is a unique way to create fire. It is based on the design of a plunger being quickly pushed into an airtight tube compressing the air, which raises the temperature, and igniting some tinder attached to the tip of the plunger. This uses nothing but compressed air to light the fire.

Electricity: Batteries are the source for a ready-made fire starting kit. Add in some steel wool in a very fine grade, touch the contacts and the steel wool will glow and begin to flame. It does not last long, but works great. Have your tinder, kindling and wood ready to built a fire.

Sunlight: A magnifying glass will work wonders producing a focused point using the suns rays to ignite tinder. We all played with these as kids, but they work well as long as the sun is out. You will be in a world of hurt if you need a fire in the middle of the night and all you have is a magnifying glass. Basically, hold the glass over the tinder with the full glass exposed to the sun. Move the glass in and out until you get the smallest dot of focused light. Move the beam of light into the tinder and it will set it afire. Here are a few more ways sunlight can be used, but would have to be a last ditch effort. Water in plastic bags can be shaped into a ball with the sun refracting through will also produce a focused point of light, which means heat. A harder but possible method is using ice as the magnifier as long as it is clear and not milky in color. Any reflective surface can be made to focus the suns rays into a focal point to produce heat, as an example a soda can bottom polished to a shinny finish will work with some effort.

All of these methods work to produce heat capable of igniting tinder and starting a fire. It is advised that you spend some time playing with the different components for the experience of actually doing it before you really need it. ATAC TV can help by reviewing the instructional programs covering this subject and much more in survival related gear and techniques. Be safe.

In any survival situation there are several things that need to be in place to insure a successful survival. Finding water, shelter, food and creating fire are all on the top of that list. Although all of these are very important, in this post I would like to address the basic of fire starting.

There are many techniques for wilderness fire starting which range from the very primitive to the technically advanced. All of which work very well with a little practice under the best conditions. At ATACTV.com we show you how. Waiting until you are out in the wilderness and fighting unknown conditions is not the place to try a new method for starting a fire. Finding a technique that works well for you and prior preparation before going out into the wilderness is always best to ensure your success. In order to start a fire with routine success you need a dry spot for the fire, a spark, plenty of oxygen and dry tender, kindling, and fuel.

Keep in mind that a fire always starts with a spark. How you obtain that spark is not of importance, weather you use a hand drill or bow drill techniques that were perfected by the Aborigine or flint rocks and or even more modern devices such as flint steal, 9volt battery against steal wool and spark igniters, all of which produce a spark that is needed to start fire. What is important is how you treat that spark. Keeping in mind that the spark is the infancy stage of the fire, treating it with gentle care lots of oxygen and fuel it will produce a fire. Moisture is not your friend!

Like most things in life start small. Fire starting is the same, introducing the spark to your fuel start small with tender. Tender is fine ignitable fuel that burns very quickly such as dry moss, grasses, shredded wood bark, tissue paper and cotton balls. Adding alcohol or petroleum jell to your tender will enhance it catching fire and may prolong its burn time. While introducing the spark to the tender, lots of oxygen is also needed to create flame. Once you have flame you have only a short time to start the kindling on fire. Kindling is small pieces wood twigs, paper and other fuel that has a longer burning time and will produce a small amount of heat. Once the kindling has starting on fire you are on your way and all that is needed it to introduce larger forms of fuel like wood logs and rolled up paper. For the most part as your fuel burns you will create a good bed of hot coals and all you need at that point to keep your fire is to keep adding more fuel as needed.

ATACTV.com survival can show you the tools and skills that you will need to do wilderness fire starting.

The value of a GPS receiver could be a cheap price to pay for your life. Yes, it can save your life! ATAC TV Survival highly recommends that you study the systems, learn to use it, and buy a pocket GPS for your safety. This is one of the best items that have come out of the electronic whirlwind of technology. GPS receivers are used to provide information on your current location, where you want to go, and how to get there, and back. In an overview of the capabilities of what a GPS receiver can do, we will hit the high points you should know about these units.

GPS stands for “Global Positioning System” and is a full network of satellites built by the US Department of Defense, 24 of them to be exact. Each satellite sends signals down to the earth from their orbits in space. It takes three (3) or more of the satellites signals to identify the GPS unit’s position. If the unit can receive four (4) of these signals, it can provide and determine your elevation. In 2003, the Government activated the Wide Area Augmentation System (WAAS) that vastly improved the standard GPS unit’s accuracy, and once activated in your unit, it can give your position better than 3 meters about 95% of the time. Guess what? With a GPS unit, you will be able to tell where you are, even out in the middle of the ocean. Some GPS units that have highly sensitive chipsets, SiRF as an example can acquire, compute and process satellite signals very rapidly and can obtain these signals in very challenging areas such as narrow canyons and dense forests with thick overhead cover.

The GPS not only can tell you where you are, it can be programmed with information, and direct you to where you want to go. Another very useful feature that the units do is drop “bread crumbs”, usually called “Waypoints” along the route you pass to remember how and when you got from Point A to Point B. This means you can precisely follow the path you came on back to the original point. Also, you can drop an electronic waypoint any spot you want to remember, such as a good possible campsite, favorite rock formations etc, and find that spot anytime you want with the coordinates or waypoint. You can mark or save waypoints as you hike and once you have some in the unit, it is called a “route”. Basic GPS units display routes on a blank screen, but the more advanced and costly units are usually loaded with topographic and/or road maps.

Most GPS units come pre-loaded with a base map that includes cities and roads, or roads with points of interest, but there are many different software packages. Normally GPS units do not have detailed topographical maps. The better or more advanced units can be loaded with additional maps to suit your needs using a computer loading off CD’s or DVD’s. Usually the more money you spend on a GPS unit the more capable it will be. Consider the units memory if you plan to load many different sets of maps. A large memory is needed for storage of lots of waypoints and varies maps and information. As you learn more about these units, you will have to decide the primary use you have planned for the device. It might be that you will only use it for trail or roads. Some units can give you the best of both worlds being capable of both. B/W or color screens are another necessary choice that can make a big difference if you have to work with the units in the dark. Color screens are much better and easier to use after the sun goes down. Again, money drives these units and more capability costs more money. There are many other options available on these units and you must spend the time deciding what you need for your adventures. Don’t Forget! You still need a map and compass. Batteries can run dry at the worst possible time. ATAC TV will help teach you the basic and advance lessons you will need to venture out on your own safely. Learn how to use the GPS and the map and compass for your own safety. You will find it was time well spent.

Jim Fuller with Rifle Dynamics and Mark Flinn are filming for ATAC TV with some new programs on the FAL and RPK in the coming weeks.  For more information go to ATAC TV.

The AR-15 / M16 rifle has two adjustable sights:  front and rear. Zeroing elevation adjustments are made using the front sight, and windage adjustments with the rear.
The rear sight has an elevation knob with range indicators from 300 to 800 meters and two apertures for range. One aperture is marked 0-2 for short range from 0-200 meters and the unmarked aperture for normal range from 300 to 800 meters. This unmarked aperture is used in conjunction with the elevation knob for 300-800 meter targets.

The rear sight also consists of a windage knob on the right side of the sight. Each click of the windage knob will move the strike of the round from 1/8 inch at 25 meters to 4 inches at 800 meters. A windage knob pointer is on the windage knob.

The front sight housing consists of a rotating sight post with a spring- loaded detent. This detent can be depressed using a sight adjustment tool, or using a sharp point such as a cartridge tip.

The following procedure will establish a zero at 25 meters, and your AR-15 / M16 will be set with a 300 meter battlesight zero. This means that all shots will be within a 9″ circle at all ranges up to 300 meters.
Establish Mechanical Zero:

• Align the windage indicator mark on the 0-2 aperture with the center line of the windage scale (the unmarked aperture is up).
• Rotate the elevation knob down until the range scale 8/3 (300- meter) mark is aligned with the mark on the left side of the receiver.
• Rotate the front sight post up or down as required until the base of the front sight post is flush with the top of the sight post well. Carefully aim and fire each shot of a 3-shot group at a paper target set up at 25 meters. If your shots are not striking the point-of-aim, then adjust your sights.
• To raise the point of impact, rotate the front sight post in the direction marked UP (clockwise).
• To lower the point of impact, rotate the front sight post in the direction marked DOWN (counter-clockwise)
• To move the point of impact left, turn windage knob counterclockwise.
• To move the point of impact right, turn the windage knob clockwise. Continue to fire 3-shot groups and adjust the sights until you have a tight group at the point of aim.

  Once this is done, the unmarked aperture is automatically zeroed. Your rifle is now combat-zeroed.  All of the other ranges on the elevation knob are also zeroed, so to engage target at say 500 meters, turn wheel to 5.

ATAC TV Firearms staff ALWAYS carries extra magazines. Seems reasonable if you have a loaded rifle in your hands, extra ammunition is a good idea in any situation and with the Mini 14, which means extra loaded magazines. If you are going to venture farther than 20 feet from your car or pick up with a rifle, you should be carrying an extra magazine or two just in case you need it. Having the extra ammunition in your pocket or carrier is much better than needing more cartridges and not having them. So, carry more ammunition, get it?

There are a couple of different reloads you might encounter shooting your Mini 14. Lets break them down separately.

Rifle with partial depleted magazine:

You have fired some rounds, but you want to make sure the firearm is as full of ammunition as it can carry, here is how you fix it.

• You are in no hurry to do this; look around to make sure you don’t have to shoot immediately.
• Trigger finger goes straight along the frame of the rifle, tuck butt of stock under your arm to support the weight of the rifle.
• Non-firing hand grabs the magazine; while the thumb pushes the magazine release lever, then rock that magazine forward out of the well. Put the partial depleted magazine in your pocket while looking around evaluating the situation.
• Get a full magazine out of your pocket or carrier, insert it into the magazine well hooking it on the front post and rock it back until the magazine release lever locks in place.
  
• You have time to chamber check to guaranty there is a loaded cartridge in the chamber. Once you know the rifle is completely loaded, go about your business.

Gun is Empty:

Ok, you been shooting at all kinds of things, or just haven’t been hitting whatever it is you are shooting. The rifle runs out of ammunition and normally the bolt will lock open when this happens. There is no trigger, meaning you press the trigger and nothing happens. Glance down into the ejection port and see that it’s all black and dark in the port. The magazines follower is sticking up and there is no brass or cartridges visible. The gun is empty.

• Trigger finger goes straight along the frame of the rifle, tuck butt of stock under your arm to support the weight of the rifle.
• Non-firing hand grabs the magazine; while the thumb pushes the magazine release lever, then rock that magazine forward out of the well. Put the empty magazine in your pocket or if you are in a huge hurry, dump the magazine on the ground.
• Get a full magazine out of your pocket or carrier, insert it into the magazine well hooking it on the front post and rock it back until the magazine release lever locks in place.
• Get back on the target and sights ready to shoot again.

Either of these reloads takes practice with your equipment to become proficient with the Mini 14. In the tactical world, these reloads are called Combat, Emergency and Tactical loads. Call them anything you want but it amounts to reloading the rifle in any situation. Watch the ATAC TV video linked below for a demonstration of these reloads.

WATCH VIDEO HERE: Ruger Mini 14 Reloads

As you use this rifle, it must be carried in some fashion as you walk, ride a horse or any mode of movement. How and where you carry the firearm determines how you will present the rifle to the target when the time comes.

There are three basic carry modes, and many variations of these used by ranchers, Law Enforcement, plinkers and hunters, including a lot of other aspects and sports that people enjoy, including self defense training. You can watch this and all the Mini 14 instructional programs on ATAC TV Firearms Channel for learning correct techniques and for review. Lets make a list of these three and break them down to make it easy to understand.

Field Ready: You can call this anything you want but it means your are walking or holding the rifle low on the body, with both hands, the rifle is pulled into you hips and the weight is resting on your frame. You can spend the day holding the firearm this way, as it is not fatiguing much at all. You see a target, the rifle is thrust directly at the target straight out away from your body to clear any garments. Pull the gun back into your shoulder pocket, establishing a cheek-weld as your firing and support hands pull the firearm back into the pocket, the safety is turned off and finger goes onto the trigger. You are on the sights and ready to shoot.

Muzzle Up Carry: Something has raised your interest or demands attention. You raise the rifle muzzle high with the butt trapped under your firing side arm, which brings your eyes, the muzzle and the potential target in line. So, eyes, muzzle and target as you scan the area ready to present the firearm quickly if needed. @font-face { font-family: “Arial”; }@font-face { font-family: “Cambria”; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 10pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: “Times New Roman”; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }Simply push the rifle straight out to the target, pushing the safety lever forward disengaging the safety and then pull the rifle back into your shoulder pocket and establish a good cheek-weld. @font-face { font-family: “Arial”; }@font-face { font-family: “Cambria”; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 10pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: “Times New Roman”; }div.Section1 { }Sound familiar? Whatever the method of carry it happens to be, this presentation is the same, just from a different location, state of readiness and comfort level. This is very quick response to the target. This position or carry can be maintained for a considerable length of time.

Ready: You have a target or are searching for something that could be an imminent threat or bagging a steak dinner, depending on what you are doing. You are ready to shoot. The rifle is mounted into your shoulder pocket, you have established a partial cheek-weld, the rifle is just lower than you line of sight, so you can see any movement. Your safety is on or off, with the trigger finger along the frame of the rifle. You are hunting something, or at least ready to react immediately and raise the rifle to the target, finger on the trigger, sights aligned and poised to press and make a very loud bang when needed!

These carry positions and presentations should be practiced and trained so that as you need to present the firearm, it will be a smooth clean movement to the target. Again, safety is the most important aspect of firearm handling and needs to be part of your training.

Watch the video linked below for the fine details and demonstration of the carry and presentations on ATAC TV. @font-face { font-family: “Arial”; }@font-face { font-family: “Cambria”; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: “Times New Roman”; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; }

Watch Video Now: Ruger Mini 14 Carry Methods